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Say what? You wanna hike Machu Picchu?
2024-01-18
Here's the skinny on hiking Machu Picchu, from my personal experience. My friend and I visited this remarkable historic site in 2016, as part of a low-impact, tour group. We numbered no more than 13, which is a manageable size. I'm going to offer my advice, a few key pointers.
1. Tours: There are a variety of tour companies that'll happily guide you safely to the top (this is the ideal bcus approximately 5 people die each year, falling off the MP mountain). The classic tour that everyone wants is the Inca Trail, which is the busiest, requiring you to book six months in advance. Then there's a lesser known tour called the Salcantay Trek, not as crowded, more remote and off the beaten-path, as they say; the one my friend and I took — trekking 50 miles in four days, going up and up the Salcantay mountain, utilizing switchbacks (cutting sharply from one side to the other) and sometimes having to climb down before climbing back up again), and this was even before having reached Machu Picchu. The kind of tour you end up choosing, all depends on what experience you're looking for — a Classic one or something lesser known.
2. Steps: The Inca Trail is about 11,000 steps to the top of MP. That's right — 11,000 steps, undertaken in high altitude. Seems easy, if only that were true. I work in an office tower in Ottawa, an 18-storey high-rise. Each floor has 20 steps, as per the stairwell count, and this adds up to 360 steps. So let's round up to a total of 20 Floors = 400 steps, to simplify the count for mathematically challenged individuals like myself. Now, divide 11,000 steps by 20 (to represent 20 steps per floor) and you've got 550 floors to climb to the top of MP, which equates to a total of 27 tower buildings, stacked end to end. Keep in mind, however, that each step on the Inca Trail is twice the width of standard North American steps by commercial requirements, so you actually take two steps to get to the next one. I repeat: t's a hike in high altitude, so for each step you take, you take a breath, a laboured breath, and not a deep one; the absence of oxygen in the air means it's near impossible to breathe deeply.
3. Altitude: Not everyone suffers in high altitude, but most do. Diamox is a well-known prescription that helps your blood to acclimate to high altitude. However, most doctors prescribe it wrong. They should be giving you enough pills to begin taking them 4-5 days before you leave your country, and once there you continue to take them. But our doctors are misinformed, as I said, advising that you begin taking Diamox when you arrive, and this negatively affects their efficacy. (Lie to your doctor, if you have to; give the wrong date when you're arriving, and how long you'll be staying, so that you can get a prescription for more pills). You'll suffer in high altitude. I guarantee you. It helps if you allow yourself a minimum of 4-5 days in Cusco to acclimate (the originating point when you arrive in Peru), which has an elevation point of 11,152 feet above sea level. You'll be winded merely climbing stairs, but spending even a few days in this city will help your body to adapt. I struggle in high altitude. My friend less so. When I returned to Canada I researched that Blood Type A is better suited to high altitudes whereas Blood Type O's will suffer the most; I'm Blood Type O. Peruvian bodies have adjusted to high altitudes. You'll notice their upper bodies are barrel-chested, because their lungs have evolved over millennia and are larger, to take in, process and hold more oxygen.
I've read comments from athletes who returned from their hike to MP, some of whom had said, "I don't understand it. I run every day. I run marathons every year. I consider myself to be in top health but the steps damn near killed me. You just keep on climbing, round a corner, and there are more steps, and more steps!" So, I consulted a wise friend, a genius in math, and his reply, "Well... running is nothing like climbing stairs. It's a whole different mathematical equation: force x pressure x pounds per square inch. You are lifting your body weight against gravity, and then there's the element of high altitude, and this changes the equation again." [Don't even ask me to explain it. I couldn't if the answer were plated for me.] I trust his answer stressed my point: high altitude changes the game entirely.
4. Cocoa Leaves: Peruvians working and living in high altitudes will stuff a wad of cocoa leaves in their mouth, the way a cowboy "chews his cud", so to speak, wedging a bunch of dry leaves between their cheek and jaw. I highly recommend you seize the opportunity to buy a baggie before the trek. Your tour leader will recommend the same. Cocoa leaves won't give you a speedy feeling, in case you're wondering. The leaves will slowly leach into your bloodstream and you'll get a sense of having a second wind. Don't, however, even consider smuggling any of these leaves out of the country; they're classified as an illegal substance (used to make the refined product of cocaine) and if the Peruvian airport officials find cocoa leaves in your luggage, they'll throw your ass in jail. Use them while you're there, on your hike, and then give the rest away when you're done.
5. Hiking shoes or boots? There's a misconception on what ankle support means, which has less to do with your ankle and more with how sturdy the sole is on your boots or hiking shoes. So if you turn your boot upside down, and grab the toe and heel at the same time (both hands), to twist them in opposite direction, you'll know immediately if you've bought yourself a pair with good ankle support. Not being able to twist the sole is what you need to look for, rather than cheap footwear. Buy the best, lightest your money can afford. Every pound on your foot equates to the feeling of carrying 10 pounds on your back. I wore hiking boots with an ankle guard, as opposed to hiking shoes. My friend wore hiking shoes (obviously more lightweight) and because of some of the steep declines on our trek, her toes were pushed forward to the absolute tip of the shoes and she ended up losing some toenails during the hike. I didn't have to experience this pain to understand that it was 'excruciating' as my friend described it. Hiking boots are generally made with ankle guards to cover your shin/ankle. Your toes won't slide forward. However, they're heavier than hiking shoes, so it's a trade-off. The best hiking boots are rather pricey but they're also super-lightweight, and waterproof.
6. Backpack: If you're like me and you travel only with carry-on luggage, you'll need to pack a lightweight backpack that can be collapsed inside your carry-on because most tour companies will recommend you carry no more than 10 pounds in your backpack, and it'll feel heavy, regardless. Your backpack is essential as you'll carry your sleeping back, poncho, bug repellent spray, sun-protection, hat, chocolate bars, another pair of flat shoes for when you remove your boots/shoes at the end of the day's hiking, to give your feet a much-needed break — essentials you'll need during the hike.
7. Bug repellent: Machu Picchu is on the periphery of the Amazon jungle but for all intents and purposes, MP is in the jungle. Their mosquitoes are called midges; you can't see them, you can't feel them, you can't hear them, until you literally see streaks of blood running down your legs. As you get closer to the MP mountain, the midges come out in full force, and they're damn hungry. I had 50 bites per leg, so many that my body looked diseased (as told to me by my friend, when she saw my bare legs; she looked horrified), and our tour leader was worried that I'd go into anaphylactic shock because of having collected far too many bites. Thankfully I didn't go into shock. These puny midges are an old species. I called them dinosaur mosquitoes because they're such an ancient species of mosquito that I'm sure they just laughed at my modern bug repellent spray, which didn't do diddly-squat. When my bites swelled up to the size of quarters, I was really worried but luckily I had brought with me tiger balm (for aching muscles) and this helped to shrink them down in size, and to control the outbreak. However, and after I returned to Canada, my bites re-exploded, so I had to use tiger balm all over again, until they disappeared. I still have tiny black dots like scars on some parts of my lower legs. Like I said, midges are dinosaur mosquitoes. If I had known about their ruthless ways, I'd have rubbed tiger balm over every inch of my skin, despite me having worn leggings.
8. Time of Year: Choose your time of year wisely, and consult weather cycles for Peru. We went in the mid-September timeframe, the least amount of rainfall, less stifling heat, and fewer crowds. I recall another colleague who hiked Machu Picchu in the March/April timeframe, she told me about the horror of one group whose tent had slid off the side of the mountain, at night, while they were asleep, because of the wet ground. Everyone died. There's also a period in their year when soldier ants go on a march, numbered in the hundreds of thousands, and the tents are set up on stilts, so I've been told, to avoid contact with ants crawling on the ground. The Peruvian govt is loathe to advertise to the general public the fact that people die every year hiking Machu Picchu, and the media too will suppress this information. We had details of some of the accidents on good authority from our bed and breakfast owner; himself Peruvian, who while serving us an awesome breakfast, before we began our trek, had casually asked, "You realize people die every year hiking Machu Picchu, right?"
9. Elevation: Machu Picchu is 7,972 feet above sea level. Cusco, Peru (the city you fly into) is at 11,152 feet, so you'll feel this altitude instantly, and you'll feel better if you have at least 4-5 days in Cusco beforehand, to explore and to get used to the altitude, so that you'll feel confident when you begin your trek. But know the minute you begin to climb steps, you'll feel winded because you're exerting yourself, and it will feel like your heart is going to beat out your chest. On our trek, the top of the Salcantay mountain has an elevation point of 15,000 feet—cold, dark, and windy at the top (the view and experience were awesome). The advantage of choosing the Salcantay trek, as I stated earlier, is the absence of hoards of tourists, all choosing the classic Inca Trail. Once at the top of Machu Picchu, you have the option (book in advance) to hike up the mountain on top of the mountain called Huayna Picchu, freakishly dangerous, narrow winding steps that plummet mercilessly, should you fall to your death. And if you fall, accidently of course (most lose their focus) know that MP is a mountain in the middle of the jungle. It's not like a helicopter will be dispatched to retrieve your body. They'll wait for the vultures to circle overhead, pointing to the authorities where your body has landed. You'll be dead so you'll have nothing to worry about, right?
10. Falling: I wouldn't worry about falling off the mountain, if you're thinking it'll be painful. You'll more than likely crack your skull on the rocks or steps on your way down, and you'll be dead before your body stops falling. Before you enter the site of Machu Picchu, your Passport will be scanned, to allow the authorities to know precisely who has come through the main gates. In the past, they didn't follow this practice and they had no idea who didn't come back; now they know who has fallen off the mountain, based on the passports that fail to be re-scanned, coming back through the gates.
11. Preparation: Not everyone will see the value in preparing beforehand. I did. I walked up flights of stairs in the tower office I work in easily one year in advance. I wanted to prepare my heart to avoid having a heart attack. My friend went hiking in the Gatineau hills to prepare her muscles and lungs. Do what you have to do to prepare, like hiking with your boots and backpack to get a sense of the total weight you'll be carrying. The only real way you can acclimate in a high altitude is by spending time in a high altitude. I remember my dentist telling me that when she and her family hiked Machu Picchu, they purposely spent two weeks touring around to acclimate but she still admitted to the level of difficulty to hike MP. Another colleague, again a runner, was flabbergasted when she climbed stairs before going, citing to me how doing so had whooped her ass (re-read point #3 again on high altitudes).
12. Hiking poles: Every tour company will recommend that you rent hiking poles. Don't buy them in advance on their website, before you arrive, as you'll be charged the processing fee for using your credit card online. Wait until you arrive in Cusco. We had a briefing prior to the beginning of our tour, and we realized at that time that we could have rented poles for less, rather than spend more before coming into Peru. My friend hated using poles, and she regretted having rented them. I, on the other hand, was glad that I rented poles because they help to relieve some of the stress on your body when you're hauling weight while hiking up and up and up!
13. At the top: Machu Picchu is utterly stunning and breathtaking! What a view! You feel like you're in the clouds. Our tour had us arriving at the top just as the sun was coming up and it's a sight to see (check out the panorama photo). You'll get a history lesson from your tour leader, as they're a veritable wealth of info on MP. But before getting to the top of MP, you'll have to get a room in Aquas Calientes, a small little town in Peru that has sprung up solely to service tourists hiking MP. Our tour had us hiking along the railroad tracks, leading to Aquas Calientes, where every rock in the country had obviously been strewn alongside the tracks, just to ensure that we were thoroughly exhausted, and that our feet were tired. Additionally, you'll need to line up very early at 3 AM in Aquas Calientes to purchase the bus ticket that will bring you to the main gate of MP, about $24 round trip, if you choose to take a bus up to MP, rather than venture to hike. The buses are crowded so you'll want to get in line early. Some opt instead to walk up the last set of steps to the top of MP, rather than take the bus. With our Salcantay trek, we had been hiking a total of 50 miles over four days, going as high as 15,000 feet above sea level, much higher than MP, even before we made it to the top of MP, so our group took the bus to the main gate, rather than handle the last set of steps. [Warning: Don't buy trinkets in Aquas Calientes, as they're over-priced, by the way].
14. Peruvian cuisine: The food in Peru is some of the tastiest you'll eat anywhere in the world. Lima and Cusco are considered food meccas that chefs travel to, just to sample their cuisine. My friend and I were shocked how everything tasted better, the flavours more impactful, everything cooked from scratch. Peru doesn't have grocery stores like we do in North America, though apparently their business model is changing, to become more like ours, and this is a travesty. When in Peru, there were small fresh food markets everywhere; they grow their vegetables without the use of pesticides. The best hamburger I've tasted was in Cusco, Peru - made from Alpaca meat. Their Andean potatoes were the best I've ever tasted. Why, even their condiments were made from scratch. (But there was food that had turned my stomach; it's called Cuy (pronounced coo-ee); a Peruvian delicacy of roasted guinea pig. The stick on which it is served to you, if you buy it from the street, is literally shoved through the guinea pig's anus, coming through it's mouth, and it's eaten like a popsicle. No thank you!)
15. Clothing: I had brought with me leggings because they allow for freedom of movement but I didn't bring enough. Bring a fleece jacket (if you opt for the Salcantay Trek, given the frigid temps at the mountaintop), as well as an outer-shell that is waterproof, plus a good toque for protection from the cold when at the top of the Salcantay mountain, as well as a cap or hat to protect your head from the sun. At one point on our trek, there was a need to put on a light neck gator. Sorry. But I can't remember the actual name but it's light-weight, cotton, and you wear it around your neck, until you need to pull it up and over your nose. There will be dust too, depending on the time of year. Natural fibers allow your skin to breathe, which is a bonus; you will work up a sweat during your hike. Moisture wicking tops and socks are a must. When hiking in high altitudes, remember that you're closer to the sun so its UV rays and heat will cook you.
15. The extras: Bring whatever medication you cannot do without like Imodium, ibuprofen, etc. I brought traveler's diarrhea pills which I ended up using. While hiking you don't want to fall prey to a dodgy tummy, as so many did on our hike, such as those who brushed their teeth with local water; use bottled water only. Wet wipes too are great to use before you eat, given that during the hike you'll be camping outside, on the mountain. Buy baby wipes; better price, in larger quantities, rather than anti-bacterial wipes, tho' these are good too. It all depends what you prefer. Your tour company will prepare your meals, depending on the kind of tour you end up choosing. In Cusco, too, you can purchase at pharmacies Oxy-shot, a handheld cannister that delivers a jolt of oxygen. I'm sorry I didn't buy this because our tour company didn't offer oxygen on the trek, though they lied to us during our tour briefing in their office, showing a cannister of oxygen, citing that it would be brought along for emergencies. However, I never saw the oxygen tank. One of our tour mates had succumbed to altitude sickness and she spent time lying down in her tent, light-headed, nauseous, and weak with a dodgy tummy.
16. Alternatively: Some choose to make it to MP on their own, without hiring the services of a tour guide, in which case you'll still need to land in Cusco, get a hotel, acclimate, then take a bus to Ollantaytambo, a small village outside of Cusco, which also has historic monuments that you can climb, to prepare yourself, and then you'll need to hop onto a train to Aquas Calientes, and take a bus to the base of MP, or alternatively hike alongside the train tracks to MP, plus climb the stairs. It's also recommended that you avoid alcohol before hiking MP, as this weakens your body. Cusco is a busy city because of MP. There are trinket sellers everywhere in the main city centre, and they will hound you, wherever you go.
19. SPF Protection: You're hiking in high altitude and the sun will feel like it's cooking your skin, literally and figuratively, so bring sun-protection and smother it across your face, to include wearing a good hat (black to block out more of the UV rays) plus bring an extra hat, just in case and wear quality sun-glasses, not the cheap kind. Your eyes will thank you for it. Keep in mind that white T-shirts, as an example, have only an SPF protection level of 15, hardly anything.
18. The Salcantay Trek: If you choose the more adventurous option and take this trek, know that there'll be moments when you'll be petrified, especially if you suffer from vertigo. There are drops that plummet thousands of feet. Seasoned mountaineers would regard hiking Machu Picchu as easy, especially any mountaineer that has reached the peak of Mount Everest (base camp is 19,000 feet; yet they too prepare themselves, months and in some cases years in advance). You need to be fit. Don't consider hiking Machu Picchu to get fit, as you'll feel like you're going to die. There is one section of the hike that requires you to cross a small man-made bridge (a slab of rock) that is barely 12-inches wide, and about five feet long, without handrails, which has been wedged between a wide crevice, a bend in the mountain, if you will. It has a plummeting drop, should you fall off. On the plus-side, the Salcantay Trek gives you the option to zip-line across a gorge that is easily as high as a 20-storey building; it's exhilarating and terrifying all at once. And there is also a suspension bridge, that cannot be avoided, that had absolutely freaked out many on our hike, my friend included (she was brave and made it across regardless but has sworn to never cross a similar bridge ever again, for the rest of her life, and I believe her). A suspension bridge moves; it sways and swings, while you step across slats of wood, spread some five inches apart from one another, all the while seeing below your feet to the bottom of a gorge.
Salcantay follow-up, given that it's dang cold on top of this mountain @ 15,000 feet above sea level, so here are additional recommendations, in terms of what you'll be grateful for hauling in your backpack:
* A wool toque
* A warm scarf
* Wool socks
* Winter gloves
* Fleece-lined leggings/pants
* Thermal sleeping back
* Thermal heating pad
* Headlamp
To be able to sleep in these frigid temps, I wore three layers on my legs (bcus I stupidly forgot to bring fleece-lined leggings), as well as my toque (winter, wool hat), wind-proof outer-shell, fleece-lined inner shell, winter gloves, wool socks and scarf. And if, by chance, you need to tinkle in the night, you'll need a headlamp to guide you to the out-house. On top of the mountain, there is no light, other than the shine from the stars in the sky but it will still feel pitch-black, and you'll barely be able to see your hand in front of your face. Bring along your tent buddy bcus you don't want to wander off in the wrong direction.
All in all... Be positive! Plan ahead. Do your research! Be brave! And if you're wondering would I hike Machu Picchu again, the answer is a resounding: Hells No! Once is enough. But the experience ranks up there in my top ten list of all time. I've been around. I've traveled to many exotic places in the world. It has been years since I've hiked Machu Picchu and yet the memories are as vivid as yesterday.
Look closely at the picture I've posted, that I took when we made it to the top. You'll see a small mountain in the background, peeking from behind cloud cover - this is Huayna Picchu. It's treacherous. Then, look at the foreground, lower bottom right; you'll see a man standing far too close to the edge, getting his picture taken. This is how some fall off the mountain. It happened to a woman on my colleague's trek; she stopped to photograph the group, mid-hike, with the edge behind her, and took one step backward, without thinking about it, and she fell off. #machupicchu
1. Tours: There are a variety of tour companies that'll happily guide you safely to the top (this is the ideal bcus approximately 5 people die each year, falling off the MP mountain). The classic tour that everyone wants is the Inca Trail, which is the busiest, requiring you to book six months in advance. Then there's a lesser known tour called the Salcantay Trek, not as crowded, more remote and off the beaten-path, as they say; the one my friend and I took — trekking 50 miles in four days, going up and up the Salcantay mountain, utilizing switchbacks (cutting sharply from one side to the other) and sometimes having to climb down before climbing back up again), and this was even before having reached Machu Picchu. The kind of tour you end up choosing, all depends on what experience you're looking for — a Classic one or something lesser known.
2. Steps: The Inca Trail is about 11,000 steps to the top of MP. That's right — 11,000 steps, undertaken in high altitude. Seems easy, if only that were true. I work in an office tower in Ottawa, an 18-storey high-rise. Each floor has 20 steps, as per the stairwell count, and this adds up to 360 steps. So let's round up to a total of 20 Floors = 400 steps, to simplify the count for mathematically challenged individuals like myself. Now, divide 11,000 steps by 20 (to represent 20 steps per floor) and you've got 550 floors to climb to the top of MP, which equates to a total of 27 tower buildings, stacked end to end. Keep in mind, however, that each step on the Inca Trail is twice the width of standard North American steps by commercial requirements, so you actually take two steps to get to the next one. I repeat: t's a hike in high altitude, so for each step you take, you take a breath, a laboured breath, and not a deep one; the absence of oxygen in the air means it's near impossible to breathe deeply.
3. Altitude: Not everyone suffers in high altitude, but most do. Diamox is a well-known prescription that helps your blood to acclimate to high altitude. However, most doctors prescribe it wrong. They should be giving you enough pills to begin taking them 4-5 days before you leave your country, and once there you continue to take them. But our doctors are misinformed, as I said, advising that you begin taking Diamox when you arrive, and this negatively affects their efficacy. (Lie to your doctor, if you have to; give the wrong date when you're arriving, and how long you'll be staying, so that you can get a prescription for more pills). You'll suffer in high altitude. I guarantee you. It helps if you allow yourself a minimum of 4-5 days in Cusco to acclimate (the originating point when you arrive in Peru), which has an elevation point of 11,152 feet above sea level. You'll be winded merely climbing stairs, but spending even a few days in this city will help your body to adapt. I struggle in high altitude. My friend less so. When I returned to Canada I researched that Blood Type A is better suited to high altitudes whereas Blood Type O's will suffer the most; I'm Blood Type O. Peruvian bodies have adjusted to high altitudes. You'll notice their upper bodies are barrel-chested, because their lungs have evolved over millennia and are larger, to take in, process and hold more oxygen.
I've read comments from athletes who returned from their hike to MP, some of whom had said, "I don't understand it. I run every day. I run marathons every year. I consider myself to be in top health but the steps damn near killed me. You just keep on climbing, round a corner, and there are more steps, and more steps!" So, I consulted a wise friend, a genius in math, and his reply, "Well... running is nothing like climbing stairs. It's a whole different mathematical equation: force x pressure x pounds per square inch. You are lifting your body weight against gravity, and then there's the element of high altitude, and this changes the equation again." [Don't even ask me to explain it. I couldn't if the answer were plated for me.] I trust his answer stressed my point: high altitude changes the game entirely.
4. Cocoa Leaves: Peruvians working and living in high altitudes will stuff a wad of cocoa leaves in their mouth, the way a cowboy "chews his cud", so to speak, wedging a bunch of dry leaves between their cheek and jaw. I highly recommend you seize the opportunity to buy a baggie before the trek. Your tour leader will recommend the same. Cocoa leaves won't give you a speedy feeling, in case you're wondering. The leaves will slowly leach into your bloodstream and you'll get a sense of having a second wind. Don't, however, even consider smuggling any of these leaves out of the country; they're classified as an illegal substance (used to make the refined product of cocaine) and if the Peruvian airport officials find cocoa leaves in your luggage, they'll throw your ass in jail. Use them while you're there, on your hike, and then give the rest away when you're done.
5. Hiking shoes or boots? There's a misconception on what ankle support means, which has less to do with your ankle and more with how sturdy the sole is on your boots or hiking shoes. So if you turn your boot upside down, and grab the toe and heel at the same time (both hands), to twist them in opposite direction, you'll know immediately if you've bought yourself a pair with good ankle support. Not being able to twist the sole is what you need to look for, rather than cheap footwear. Buy the best, lightest your money can afford. Every pound on your foot equates to the feeling of carrying 10 pounds on your back. I wore hiking boots with an ankle guard, as opposed to hiking shoes. My friend wore hiking shoes (obviously more lightweight) and because of some of the steep declines on our trek, her toes were pushed forward to the absolute tip of the shoes and she ended up losing some toenails during the hike. I didn't have to experience this pain to understand that it was 'excruciating' as my friend described it. Hiking boots are generally made with ankle guards to cover your shin/ankle. Your toes won't slide forward. However, they're heavier than hiking shoes, so it's a trade-off. The best hiking boots are rather pricey but they're also super-lightweight, and waterproof.
6. Backpack: If you're like me and you travel only with carry-on luggage, you'll need to pack a lightweight backpack that can be collapsed inside your carry-on because most tour companies will recommend you carry no more than 10 pounds in your backpack, and it'll feel heavy, regardless. Your backpack is essential as you'll carry your sleeping back, poncho, bug repellent spray, sun-protection, hat, chocolate bars, another pair of flat shoes for when you remove your boots/shoes at the end of the day's hiking, to give your feet a much-needed break — essentials you'll need during the hike.
7. Bug repellent: Machu Picchu is on the periphery of the Amazon jungle but for all intents and purposes, MP is in the jungle. Their mosquitoes are called midges; you can't see them, you can't feel them, you can't hear them, until you literally see streaks of blood running down your legs. As you get closer to the MP mountain, the midges come out in full force, and they're damn hungry. I had 50 bites per leg, so many that my body looked diseased (as told to me by my friend, when she saw my bare legs; she looked horrified), and our tour leader was worried that I'd go into anaphylactic shock because of having collected far too many bites. Thankfully I didn't go into shock. These puny midges are an old species. I called them dinosaur mosquitoes because they're such an ancient species of mosquito that I'm sure they just laughed at my modern bug repellent spray, which didn't do diddly-squat. When my bites swelled up to the size of quarters, I was really worried but luckily I had brought with me tiger balm (for aching muscles) and this helped to shrink them down in size, and to control the outbreak. However, and after I returned to Canada, my bites re-exploded, so I had to use tiger balm all over again, until they disappeared. I still have tiny black dots like scars on some parts of my lower legs. Like I said, midges are dinosaur mosquitoes. If I had known about their ruthless ways, I'd have rubbed tiger balm over every inch of my skin, despite me having worn leggings.
8. Time of Year: Choose your time of year wisely, and consult weather cycles for Peru. We went in the mid-September timeframe, the least amount of rainfall, less stifling heat, and fewer crowds. I recall another colleague who hiked Machu Picchu in the March/April timeframe, she told me about the horror of one group whose tent had slid off the side of the mountain, at night, while they were asleep, because of the wet ground. Everyone died. There's also a period in their year when soldier ants go on a march, numbered in the hundreds of thousands, and the tents are set up on stilts, so I've been told, to avoid contact with ants crawling on the ground. The Peruvian govt is loathe to advertise to the general public the fact that people die every year hiking Machu Picchu, and the media too will suppress this information. We had details of some of the accidents on good authority from our bed and breakfast owner; himself Peruvian, who while serving us an awesome breakfast, before we began our trek, had casually asked, "You realize people die every year hiking Machu Picchu, right?"
9. Elevation: Machu Picchu is 7,972 feet above sea level. Cusco, Peru (the city you fly into) is at 11,152 feet, so you'll feel this altitude instantly, and you'll feel better if you have at least 4-5 days in Cusco beforehand, to explore and to get used to the altitude, so that you'll feel confident when you begin your trek. But know the minute you begin to climb steps, you'll feel winded because you're exerting yourself, and it will feel like your heart is going to beat out your chest. On our trek, the top of the Salcantay mountain has an elevation point of 15,000 feet—cold, dark, and windy at the top (the view and experience were awesome). The advantage of choosing the Salcantay trek, as I stated earlier, is the absence of hoards of tourists, all choosing the classic Inca Trail. Once at the top of Machu Picchu, you have the option (book in advance) to hike up the mountain on top of the mountain called Huayna Picchu, freakishly dangerous, narrow winding steps that plummet mercilessly, should you fall to your death. And if you fall, accidently of course (most lose their focus) know that MP is a mountain in the middle of the jungle. It's not like a helicopter will be dispatched to retrieve your body. They'll wait for the vultures to circle overhead, pointing to the authorities where your body has landed. You'll be dead so you'll have nothing to worry about, right?
10. Falling: I wouldn't worry about falling off the mountain, if you're thinking it'll be painful. You'll more than likely crack your skull on the rocks or steps on your way down, and you'll be dead before your body stops falling. Before you enter the site of Machu Picchu, your Passport will be scanned, to allow the authorities to know precisely who has come through the main gates. In the past, they didn't follow this practice and they had no idea who didn't come back; now they know who has fallen off the mountain, based on the passports that fail to be re-scanned, coming back through the gates.
11. Preparation: Not everyone will see the value in preparing beforehand. I did. I walked up flights of stairs in the tower office I work in easily one year in advance. I wanted to prepare my heart to avoid having a heart attack. My friend went hiking in the Gatineau hills to prepare her muscles and lungs. Do what you have to do to prepare, like hiking with your boots and backpack to get a sense of the total weight you'll be carrying. The only real way you can acclimate in a high altitude is by spending time in a high altitude. I remember my dentist telling me that when she and her family hiked Machu Picchu, they purposely spent two weeks touring around to acclimate but she still admitted to the level of difficulty to hike MP. Another colleague, again a runner, was flabbergasted when she climbed stairs before going, citing to me how doing so had whooped her ass (re-read point #3 again on high altitudes).
12. Hiking poles: Every tour company will recommend that you rent hiking poles. Don't buy them in advance on their website, before you arrive, as you'll be charged the processing fee for using your credit card online. Wait until you arrive in Cusco. We had a briefing prior to the beginning of our tour, and we realized at that time that we could have rented poles for less, rather than spend more before coming into Peru. My friend hated using poles, and she regretted having rented them. I, on the other hand, was glad that I rented poles because they help to relieve some of the stress on your body when you're hauling weight while hiking up and up and up!
13. At the top: Machu Picchu is utterly stunning and breathtaking! What a view! You feel like you're in the clouds. Our tour had us arriving at the top just as the sun was coming up and it's a sight to see (check out the panorama photo). You'll get a history lesson from your tour leader, as they're a veritable wealth of info on MP. But before getting to the top of MP, you'll have to get a room in Aquas Calientes, a small little town in Peru that has sprung up solely to service tourists hiking MP. Our tour had us hiking along the railroad tracks, leading to Aquas Calientes, where every rock in the country had obviously been strewn alongside the tracks, just to ensure that we were thoroughly exhausted, and that our feet were tired. Additionally, you'll need to line up very early at 3 AM in Aquas Calientes to purchase the bus ticket that will bring you to the main gate of MP, about $24 round trip, if you choose to take a bus up to MP, rather than venture to hike. The buses are crowded so you'll want to get in line early. Some opt instead to walk up the last set of steps to the top of MP, rather than take the bus. With our Salcantay trek, we had been hiking a total of 50 miles over four days, going as high as 15,000 feet above sea level, much higher than MP, even before we made it to the top of MP, so our group took the bus to the main gate, rather than handle the last set of steps. [Warning: Don't buy trinkets in Aquas Calientes, as they're over-priced, by the way].
14. Peruvian cuisine: The food in Peru is some of the tastiest you'll eat anywhere in the world. Lima and Cusco are considered food meccas that chefs travel to, just to sample their cuisine. My friend and I were shocked how everything tasted better, the flavours more impactful, everything cooked from scratch. Peru doesn't have grocery stores like we do in North America, though apparently their business model is changing, to become more like ours, and this is a travesty. When in Peru, there were small fresh food markets everywhere; they grow their vegetables without the use of pesticides. The best hamburger I've tasted was in Cusco, Peru - made from Alpaca meat. Their Andean potatoes were the best I've ever tasted. Why, even their condiments were made from scratch. (But there was food that had turned my stomach; it's called Cuy (pronounced coo-ee); a Peruvian delicacy of roasted guinea pig. The stick on which it is served to you, if you buy it from the street, is literally shoved through the guinea pig's anus, coming through it's mouth, and it's eaten like a popsicle. No thank you!)
15. Clothing: I had brought with me leggings because they allow for freedom of movement but I didn't bring enough. Bring a fleece jacket (if you opt for the Salcantay Trek, given the frigid temps at the mountaintop), as well as an outer-shell that is waterproof, plus a good toque for protection from the cold when at the top of the Salcantay mountain, as well as a cap or hat to protect your head from the sun. At one point on our trek, there was a need to put on a light neck gator. Sorry. But I can't remember the actual name but it's light-weight, cotton, and you wear it around your neck, until you need to pull it up and over your nose. There will be dust too, depending on the time of year. Natural fibers allow your skin to breathe, which is a bonus; you will work up a sweat during your hike. Moisture wicking tops and socks are a must. When hiking in high altitudes, remember that you're closer to the sun so its UV rays and heat will cook you.
15. The extras: Bring whatever medication you cannot do without like Imodium, ibuprofen, etc. I brought traveler's diarrhea pills which I ended up using. While hiking you don't want to fall prey to a dodgy tummy, as so many did on our hike, such as those who brushed their teeth with local water; use bottled water only. Wet wipes too are great to use before you eat, given that during the hike you'll be camping outside, on the mountain. Buy baby wipes; better price, in larger quantities, rather than anti-bacterial wipes, tho' these are good too. It all depends what you prefer. Your tour company will prepare your meals, depending on the kind of tour you end up choosing. In Cusco, too, you can purchase at pharmacies Oxy-shot, a handheld cannister that delivers a jolt of oxygen. I'm sorry I didn't buy this because our tour company didn't offer oxygen on the trek, though they lied to us during our tour briefing in their office, showing a cannister of oxygen, citing that it would be brought along for emergencies. However, I never saw the oxygen tank. One of our tour mates had succumbed to altitude sickness and she spent time lying down in her tent, light-headed, nauseous, and weak with a dodgy tummy.
16. Alternatively: Some choose to make it to MP on their own, without hiring the services of a tour guide, in which case you'll still need to land in Cusco, get a hotel, acclimate, then take a bus to Ollantaytambo, a small village outside of Cusco, which also has historic monuments that you can climb, to prepare yourself, and then you'll need to hop onto a train to Aquas Calientes, and take a bus to the base of MP, or alternatively hike alongside the train tracks to MP, plus climb the stairs. It's also recommended that you avoid alcohol before hiking MP, as this weakens your body. Cusco is a busy city because of MP. There are trinket sellers everywhere in the main city centre, and they will hound you, wherever you go.
19. SPF Protection: You're hiking in high altitude and the sun will feel like it's cooking your skin, literally and figuratively, so bring sun-protection and smother it across your face, to include wearing a good hat (black to block out more of the UV rays) plus bring an extra hat, just in case and wear quality sun-glasses, not the cheap kind. Your eyes will thank you for it. Keep in mind that white T-shirts, as an example, have only an SPF protection level of 15, hardly anything.
18. The Salcantay Trek: If you choose the more adventurous option and take this trek, know that there'll be moments when you'll be petrified, especially if you suffer from vertigo. There are drops that plummet thousands of feet. Seasoned mountaineers would regard hiking Machu Picchu as easy, especially any mountaineer that has reached the peak of Mount Everest (base camp is 19,000 feet; yet they too prepare themselves, months and in some cases years in advance). You need to be fit. Don't consider hiking Machu Picchu to get fit, as you'll feel like you're going to die. There is one section of the hike that requires you to cross a small man-made bridge (a slab of rock) that is barely 12-inches wide, and about five feet long, without handrails, which has been wedged between a wide crevice, a bend in the mountain, if you will. It has a plummeting drop, should you fall off. On the plus-side, the Salcantay Trek gives you the option to zip-line across a gorge that is easily as high as a 20-storey building; it's exhilarating and terrifying all at once. And there is also a suspension bridge, that cannot be avoided, that had absolutely freaked out many on our hike, my friend included (she was brave and made it across regardless but has sworn to never cross a similar bridge ever again, for the rest of her life, and I believe her). A suspension bridge moves; it sways and swings, while you step across slats of wood, spread some five inches apart from one another, all the while seeing below your feet to the bottom of a gorge.
Salcantay follow-up, given that it's dang cold on top of this mountain @ 15,000 feet above sea level, so here are additional recommendations, in terms of what you'll be grateful for hauling in your backpack:
* A wool toque
* A warm scarf
* Wool socks
* Winter gloves
* Fleece-lined leggings/pants
* Thermal sleeping back
* Thermal heating pad
* Headlamp
To be able to sleep in these frigid temps, I wore three layers on my legs (bcus I stupidly forgot to bring fleece-lined leggings), as well as my toque (winter, wool hat), wind-proof outer-shell, fleece-lined inner shell, winter gloves, wool socks and scarf. And if, by chance, you need to tinkle in the night, you'll need a headlamp to guide you to the out-house. On top of the mountain, there is no light, other than the shine from the stars in the sky but it will still feel pitch-black, and you'll barely be able to see your hand in front of your face. Bring along your tent buddy bcus you don't want to wander off in the wrong direction.
All in all... Be positive! Plan ahead. Do your research! Be brave! And if you're wondering would I hike Machu Picchu again, the answer is a resounding: Hells No! Once is enough. But the experience ranks up there in my top ten list of all time. I've been around. I've traveled to many exotic places in the world. It has been years since I've hiked Machu Picchu and yet the memories are as vivid as yesterday.
Look closely at the picture I've posted, that I took when we made it to the top. You'll see a small mountain in the background, peeking from behind cloud cover - this is Huayna Picchu. It's treacherous. Then, look at the foreground, lower bottom right; you'll see a man standing far too close to the edge, getting his picture taken. This is how some fall off the mountain. It happened to a woman on my colleague's trek; she stopped to photograph the group, mid-hike, with the edge behind her, and took one step backward, without thinking about it, and she fell off. #machupicchu
